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When I set out that morning on my way to Wadi Hadramawt, I was called precisely at the time agreed upon the day before. Someone asked for my name and I was greeted downstairs by a soldier who politely showed me the way to our 4WD. Travelling by 4WD instead of public transport, precluding any contact with the local population, was the price to pay for a visit to Wadi Dawan, but a price I was willing to pay. As we sped out of Al Mukallah, where even at this early time of the day the heat was getting unbearable, squeezing sweat out of our bodies like a giant juicer, I had a feeling of freedom, as if the landscapes lying ahead would all be mine. 








